Photo courtesy of Visit Milwaukee
Photo courtesy of Visit Milwaukee

The Ultimate Weekend in Milwaukee, Wisconsin For a Sports Fan

Your ideal guide for a sports fans’ trip to the land of beer nuts.

“Beer Nuts: the official disease of Milwaukee," quipped George Carlin, surmising the midsize city and its Happy Days-era reputation as stale, staid, and sudsy, with a hop-scented aura of Midwestern malaise, and that particular kind of cold that only comes from rustbelt lakefront terroir. Milwaukee today, well, it might smell the same. But, just for a measure of change, note the fresh NBA championship banner at Fiserv Forum.

And then consider two-time Milwaukee Bucks MVP Giannis Antetokounmpo, and a typical dunk: first is the gallop, an infinite runway acceleration; then comes that palming of the ball, toward the sky, like an experienced server with a full tray, or like playing keep-away from a precocious younger sibling. For a simple breath of a moment at Fiserv Forum even the lines at beer vendors go quiet. And then that carnival sledgehammer goes down. 

It would seem, in Giannis’ 12th year, a local Milwaukee basketball fan might become inured. And yet, still, so often you walk out of Fiserv Forum, breathe deep the cutting Lake Michigan air, and feel an elation, a renewed surprise that he is here, ours. That buzz a-brew about Deer District on gameday is really an inflection point of the new Milwaukee. Everywhere there is a 6’11 shadow of slam-dunking possibility. It all couldn’t feel further from Laverne & Shirley. But, yes, ok, there is still plenty of beer. And basketball, and a whole lot more sports, to go with it.

Here, we’ve got your ideal guide for a sports fans’ trip to Milwaukee.

Who I am: Mostly just another middle-aged Midwesterner with a beer gut and a 'ski at the end of his name, probably found at the nearest watering hole grumbling gassily about how in the world we’re supposed to carry on after the Bucks traded Khris Middleton. Originally from Buffalo—another city of dangerous appetites, bad weather, and problematic sports fans—I have been writing about food and such in Milwaukee for 20-some years, and documented the marriage of fried fare and local team-induced familial trauma, in a novel called Spend It All.

Milwaukee Estabrook Beer Garden
Estabrook Beer Garden | Photo courtesy of Visit Milwaukee
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Before you go

Book early: Summerfest loudly boasts its status as the largest music festival in the world. Over three weekends in midsummer the lakefront will be rocking with everything from Megan Thee Stallion and James Taylor, to the Lumineers and Def Leppard. Amphitheater shows may sell out, but with 13 stages of music, a sports zone, and a massive playground, nobody will be bored, or turned away. Moreover, the Summerfest grounds are used for a rotating lineup of festivals throughout the season, celebrating Irish, Mexican, and Italian heritage to name just a few.

Need to know: It’s obvious and smart to set sights on a warm weather visit. But there lies beauty in hardness: a dim and cozy corner bar with the game glowing on a too-bright TV, and a round of bar dice just an ask away, never feels as good as it does when the weather outside could, quite literally, kill you.

By the way: Don’t bring up Aaron Rodgers, or Brett Favre, unless you’ve got all day for a chat.

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Where to stay

Kinn Guesthouse
For $250-ish a night (depending on the season), the Kinn Guesthouse offers eight modern, high-ceilinged, exposed-brick guest rooms in the middle of the coolest neighborhood in town, Bay View. Healium Hot Yoga and a Snap fitness are across the street if you find yourself stir crazy in the colder months. It also sits atop Sorella, one of the best restaurants in the city. Located just about halfway between the airport and downtown, Kinn encourages you to get inspired and try your hand in the communal kitchen, or let the downstairs menu spanning arancini, rigatoni, and exceptional wood-fired pizzas, send you off to sated sleep.
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The Pfister
For a bit more money, the Pfister, in the heart of downtown, proudly carries the torch as the most storied, and the most haunted, of Milwaukee hotels. You’ll feel the years in the rooms, but the price is worth it alone for the striking lobby, and swanky rooftop lounge, Blu, where you’d do well to pass a weekend night sipping old fashioneds and digging a local jazz trio while taking in the best views available of our humble skyline.
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Two sporty days in Milwaukee, Wisconsin

Day 1

Morning

  • See a Great Lake: Lake Michigan is Milwaukee’s navigation landmark, economic hub, and freshwater oasis. It’s also the backdrop to the best place to get your steps or fill of culture: The Oak Leaf trail spans 135 miles of path. Give yourself a break and some caffeine on the sprawling patio at Colectivo, which features locally roasted coffee, home baked goods, and solid sandwiches. Need something stronger? Head across the street to the Roundhouse Beer Garden at McKinley Marina. You might fortify for a hike out along the pier or over to the Art Museum—the striking Santiago Calatrava-designed ship-like structure has become a futuristic logo for the city.

Mid day

  • Get in the kitchen: After a morning of lakefront leg work, the Riverwalk Commons Pickleball Courts is ideal to get arms swinging and balls popping. Then head across the street to the Milwaukee Public Market. Stock up on beer, wine, cheese, sausage, and spices and olive oils, then fill up on fresh seafood from St. Paul Fish Market, or barbecue, or maybe even a salad.
  • Unwind in Milwaukee’s living room: If you can’t decide between game playing or watching, or drinking, there is Third Street Market Hall. The sprawling Wisconsin Avenue oasis features shuffleboard, cornhole, Top Golf, and one million TVs for all the games. Also, there’s beer—in a dangerous and brilliant pour-your-own tap situation. And somehow this is all to bury the lead of maybe the single best food collective in town: Dairyland’s got you covered for an old-fashioned burger and curds. From there branch out toward Peruvian chicken, pho, ramen, tortas, or, because sports are on, pizza and chicken wings.
  • Have a beer in the breeze: Warmer months require filling up on Vitamin D, and for that, there are beer gardens. Try Estabrook, for hiking, frisbee golf, and fishing, or South Shore Terrace, where you can count the sailboats and check the kitesurfing.
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    Take this home

    Cheese Curds
    Smuggle some out of town in your intestines, via the fried varietal, maybe from Vanguard, dipped in a bacon stein aioli, or perhaps from Camino. But also be sure to grab some cold squeaky ones from the cooler in most any gas station in town.

    Afternoon

    • Roll: Once dubbed the “Bowling Capital of America,” Milwaukee was the headquarters of the American Bowling Congress for more than 100 years. No longer, but still a righteous ode to the city’s proud Germanic heritage. (Bowling with pins likely originated in Germany, not as a sport but as a religious ceremony). Head out to Falcon Bowl, a 100-plus-year-old bar and alley with dangerously cheap drinks, live music, and a base to jump up and out to Riverwest’s bohemian bounty of hangs and eats—try Centro, Nessun Dorma, or The Tracks.
    • Roll some more: Koz’s mini bowl is a family-friendly stop, featuring the last original duckpin bowling in the U.S., and giving access to some of the best Mexican fare in town—especially Carnitas Don Lucho on the weekends.
    • Roll one more time: By contrast Bay View Bowl is the new kid on the block. But it’s an ideal starting line for a bar crawl: Burnheart’s, Newport, or if you find yourself dragging, Anodyne has you covered for coffee, beer, or Neopolitan pizza.
      Milwaukee
      Photo courtesy of Visit Milwaukee

      Evening

      • Witness Giannis: For most of the year there are few better options than a Bucks game at Fiserv Forum. The slick beer-keg-shaped house that Giannis built was opened in 2018, offering good crowd flow, easy sight lines, one million food and drink options, and Milwaukee’s beloved Greek Freak probably dunking on someone’s poor face. Marquette University’s men’s team plays here too, if you want to get an in person glimpse at coach Shaka Smart’s high slot flow offense.
      • Hear some tunes or climb a wall: Around the corner is Turner Hall, where you could catch a national touring act seemingly any night of the week. Formed in 1853, the Milwaukee Turners are the oldest civic group in the city, dedicated to strengthening community based on the ideal of “Sound Mind in a Sound Body.” It’s a tradition continued with gymnastics and rock climbing, in what might be the longest continuously running gym in the U.S.
      • Iron your shirt for dinner on Milwaukee Street: Make a reservation at Third Coast Provisions for oysters and Great Lakes walleye, hit Flourchild for inventively hip pizza, or pop into Zarletti for carbonara and housemade ravioli. Around the corner is Amilinda, at once the coziest and most exciting restaurant in downtown, a place that has chef Gregory Leon recently nominated as a James Beard semifinalist for Outstanding Chef.

      Day 2

      Morning

      • Get in the swing early: Highbury and Nomad are famed morning time soccer bars, opening doors and bottles at irresponsible hours for shenanigans while the rest of the city is still in coffee mode.
      • Become a morning person: Feeling friskier than a spectator? You could try a kayak or pontoon, depending on your level of adventure-seeking. Either one will lead you down the Kinnickinick River, for a quick tie up and meal at Barnacle Buds, where you’ll need a grouper reuben and a bucket of cold ones.
      Milwaukee Bradford Beach
      Bradford Beach | Photo courtesy of Visit Milwaukee

      Mid day

      • Soak up some sun: Yes, Milwaukee has sun, and beaches—most notably Bradford Beach, a perfect marriage point of the East Side’s high-rise urbanity and Lake Michigan’s freshwater greatness. Take a refreshing dip, try your hand at some beach volleyball, or grab a burger at Moosa’s custard stand.

      Afternoon

      • Catch a game: If there’s any game happening, Steny’s is the place to settle in. More than a sports bar or a chicken wing destination, much more than a spot to grab a shuttle to a Brewers or Packers game, it’s the tried and true beating heart of Walker’s Point, Milwaukee’s oldest, but ever-changing, neighborhood.
      • Catch a game with real live shoe squeaks: Up the road is the Al Maguire Center, home of Marquette’s women’s basketball and volleyball teams. Named for Marquette’s beloved men’s coach of their '70s heyday, the facility is an intimate part of the school’s expanding urban campus, one that hasn’t looked or felt the same since Dwyane Wade took the Golden Eagles to the Final Four in 2003.
        Potawatomi Casino Milwaukee
        Potawatomi Casino | Photo courtesy of Visit Milwaukee

        Evening

        • Tailgate and maybe take in a game: It’s actually outside of a Brewers game that one witnesses the true apex of Milwaukee drinking culture—watch as patrons turn a sliver of American Family Field parking lot into some idealized version of their living room. It’s acceptable if you wait a few innings to make it into the game—if you make it in at all. But the park is more than a summer hangout. The Brew Crew continue on as a perennial contender, one that just can’t quite catch the breaks to get over that playoff hump.
        • Roll some dice: The ever-visible flame atop Potawatomi Casino might call your name whether you’re feeling it or not. From slots and high-stakes bingo to table games and poker, plus the Dream Dance Steakhouse and a spanking new sportsbook, it’s the place to go all out, and then to get a room and some recovery.
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        Milwaukee
        Photo courtesy of Visit Milwaukee

        If you have three days

        All of the above, but add...

        • The Pedal Tavern is like a spin class, but fun. A rolling group party on a bicycle bar is the best way to get a tour of the hip Third Ward and Walker’s Point neighborhoods, with customizable bar stops along the way.
        • While the Bucks and Brewers are the tickets to chase in town, don’t sleep on a sojourn north to Lambeau. The Jordan Love-era ramps up this fall, and is an easy and straight two hours up I-43 to Green Bay.
        • After making it interesting at Potawatomi, or, before taking in any action at Fiserv, Major Goolsbys is the spot to watch something. Here they seem to tempt the question: How many TVs is actually too many? Also, for a sports bar, the chicken wings are better than they have any right to be.
        • Pettit National Ice Center is a good place to test your mettle, or watch the best of the best test theirs. As a training site for US Speedskating, the West Allis complex is the spot for everything icy and fast, from open skates to official time trials.

        If you have four days, plus

        All of the above, but add...

        • The AHL might be the minor leagues, but an Admirals game doesn’t feel like it. Panther Arena gets hottest in the middle of winter, when the team takes the ice.
        • Pre or post game at the Old German Beer Hall. Today it doesn’t feel like there’s much linking Milwaukee to the old country on Old World Third Street but it almost always finds its way in. Here you’re having beer, pretzels, and brats. You can diet and dry out back home.

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